From the close of a thin blazer Marcel Proust in duffel coats of Holden Caulfield in flight. We are in Paris and yet the men who marched through the historic house of tailoring the male seem to have been inspired (even) from different cities but sharp in the collective imagination: where the same characters of modern literature have invented a new masculinity.And elegance. Junya Watanabe. Montgomery, drooping skin, but by the imagination Lapp rented blazer denim on working class and desert boots, and then there's a trumpet trousers and mini cylinder. While the soundtrack pulls a Keith Jarrett on piano alone, the man Junya - also because of a cast of young Giamburrasca alternating sea dogs - mixes the relaxation of a young James Dean working the most romantic wear comfort Kennedy.
Raf Simons. In the middle show a sweater reveals the intentions Dead Price College embroidered with pastel does not absolve the power of the message. For the designer the interpreter of the winter 2011/12 is leaving the roots and the classroom to escape to a new dynamism. Yet even if they appear cargo duffel coat unbuttoned the lattice effect is not abandoned, as in the classical escape from the college of the twentieth century, that of Salinger's Holden Caulfield.
Dries Van Noten. Caban profile (asymmetric) fur coats imposing square, blazer lace or complete the big darts for heavy wool pants. By turns toward the dynamism biker (skinny with white inserts and discrete geometric nails with fur) Dries Van Noten move the hands toward the nights of the Prohibition of the Great Gatsby by Fitzgerald, voluminous trousers and double-palace on everything.
Lanvin. Once again, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrjiver whisper the end of their creations, "a return to elegance - a word often used to describe older people, because when it comes to young people use terms like cool and sexy, but we want to reintroduce" elegance " for young people. " From coats ideological Lanvin: whether Amish or surrounded by soft volumes and solution stretched wide trench with hats that surround the mystery man in a sensual as the hero of Céline in Journey to the End of the night.
Yves Saint Laurent. Complete with refined lapels, full color and heavy but do not alter the figures. Why Stefano Pilati's men escape from pure dendismo to chase a dream more romantic, even one that shows bodies in sizes designed chastised him, almost surrounded with charcoal that does not clash in the living room of the readings of Marcel Proust to Illiers.
Givenchy. Forever young? The soundtrack sounds like a statement: and when they start to pull out massive bodies who wear Bermuda shorts, black leather varsity and posters everywhere with rottweiler muzzles of that grind their teeth and show bright red eyes the goal is (already) reached a shot the first Spike Lee (He 'the right thing)? But sneakers effect leg and shaved skulls are not enough to escape a maturity achieved in part thanks to reassuring and warm colors (chocolate and grape) velvet frame glasses included.
Thom Browne. Six months to prepare a banquet tailoring. The emperor was ironing appliance (with 42 dummies) and a succession of textures that carry the designer between the researchers of the principle of constant sartorilità, with a solid and consistent results even when big check on breeches and capes in Astrakhan and knitted woolen caps in effect wigs running deck the pomp of Versailles of Louis XIV
No comments:
Post a Comment