Saturday, February 19, 2011

New (designer) York

Its runways are not crowded with big names such as Paris and Milan and for this reason it is worth keep an eye on. Yes, because just from New York Fashion Week were born young talents such as Proenza Schouler and Rodarte season that some names are becoming increasingly attractive in the landscape of contemporary fashion.

And then it is worth focusing on the news and do some 'talent scouting among the emerging brand: we have chosen five that we think have the cards to make his way. 1. Christian Cota. The young Mexican designers had already been shown to have great potential so that the CDFA had just named Best Emerging Designer in June of last year.


But if until now his specialty was the clothes and prints, with this collection Fall / Winter 2011/2012 Christian proves to handle it even more challenging items such as knitwear, jackets and the ability to use hard materials such as fur. Inspired by mountain climbers and Andean peoples, the Tibetan and Himalayan, the collection plays on the thickness and the contrast between inside and outside with secret pockets and reversible fabrics.

2. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. Prints and three-dimensional assemblages "frankesteiniani" of jackets and shirts, skirts + pants, chains and collars: a collection of award-winning duo from the Isle of Man is un'azzeccata solution to the gap that often exists between the economic targets that are destined lines of ready to wear and the ideal, often much younger, which the designers think when they draw clothes.

The Fall / Winter 2011/2012 to Preen fact is, in essence, a series of comfortable look for work, moved and enriched not only interesting but also cuts the rich embroidery (with beads from artisan communities in India) applied by hand drawing Manufacturing and artistic traditions of Northern California.

3. Edun. By its second season under the creative direction of Irish Sharon Wauchob, the eco-friendly brand founded by the singer Bono and his wife Ali Hewson (and recently past, without losing its roots in the fair-trade, under the aegis of the group LVMH) shows that I know which party is going.

The collection is in fact devoted to the absolute portability, jackets, coats and lots of wool (it is winter, and it seems that finally someone will recognize it) and a lot of attention to materials and workmanship. In most prints, and suggestions that come directly from the Gypsy culture, a people who by definition does not belong to any place: at a time when the road seems to be the major source of inspiration there could be more appropriate inspiration.

4. A Détacher. The French name deceive us about its origins entirely American: the creative fact, Mona Kowalska, is the same as No. l. eng. But nothing to do with his sister's most famous: the brand that was founded in 1998, he has always moved discreetly through almost unnoticed to most.

But it is the discretion that there nicely winning the Fall / Winter 2011/2012 A Détacher, which makes us think of young intellectuals who divide their time between openings of young talents and readings philosophizing, wrapped in cashmere and cardigans with maxicardigan large pockets to hide inside the book discovered at the marché aux puces.

5. Luca Luca. California, as the sisters Mulleavy of Rodarte, seems to have in common with their passion for wet native forest landscapes: her skirt is printed with print reminiscent of the bark of trees and shirts covered by the thick veins that run on the leaves of trees. A look for "a walk in the woods," as he defines his own designer Raul Melgoza, but never gives up the heel, but always glorifies the comfort with soft blouses and trousers that are midway between Jodhpur and cigarette closed at the waist bands of skin that resemble those of smoking in easywear version.

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